Advice from Peradon on Cues and Extensions
Advice from Peradon on Cues and Extensions
What are the different gradings on cue shafts?
Peradon Ash shafts are made only from the highest-grade Ash from North America, we find the climate in this region results in the best rate of tree growth to give the grain structure we require. After felling the trunk of the tree is cut into planks at the mill to a special pattern which we have found generates the straightest grain structure and degree of rigidity suited for quality cue production. After kiln drying the planks are shipped to our Liverpool factory where we inspect and cut them into squares ready for shaping to tapered cue blanks.
Even though our timber is sourced in this manner the vast majority is still rejected as it does not make the grade for production of a Peradon cue.
The Ash squares are taken down to their final tapered shape in numerous stages over a long period, this reduces the shock to the timber and helps maintain the straightness of the shaft. Further shafts are rejected at the inspection processes between each stage. The remaining shafts represent only a small portion of the original timber consignment and are graded and stored as one of five grades ready for cue production. The cue maker then selects individual shafts by grade for bespoke cue production.
A dark grain filler is used on our ash shafts to enhance the grain pattern. Both Ash and Maple shafts are then finished using numerous sanding and oiling processes until the final silky smooth finished is achieved.
Ash Shaft Grade P1600 - One piece in every 1,600 pieces typically makes this Peradon grade.
These are extremely rare pieces which have the straightest grain pattern with no reverse arrows on top of the shaft and a maximum of 3 to 5 evenly spaced grain arrows on the top of the shaft. These shafts are the most rigid available and have a stunning clean, white ash appearance. Please note because of their rareity cues made from these blanks typically have longer waiting times.
Ash Shaft Grade P80 - One piece in every 80 pieces typically makes this Peradon grade. These shafts have a nice straight grain structure with no reverse arrows on top of the shaft and evenly spaced grain arrows on the top of the shaft. With high rigidity and a clean, white ash appearance these shafts make beautiful cues with a superb feel.
Ash Shaft Grade P60 - One piece in every 60 pieces typically makes this Peradon grade. These shafts are selected to ensure that there are no reverse arrows on the top near the tip end.
The clean, white Ash shaft has good rigidity and playing characteristics.
Ash Shaft Grade P30 - One piece in every 30 pieces typically makes this Peradon grade.
These clean, white Ash shafts are selected for their good rigidity and grain structure
Grade Shaft P20 - One piece in every 20 pieces typically makes this Peradon grade.
These Ash shafts are selected for rigidity and grain structure.
Maple Shafts - Maple has a grain which is not as visible as that on an Ash shaft, so the grading of this timber is based more on rigidity and appearance. Ash and Maple are the traditional timbers predominantly used for the production of cue shafts with Ash currently the most popular. Players will however often opt for Maple for its clean appearance and its more rigid playing characteristics. All Maple shafts are produced from quality North American Maple, selected for high rigidity and appearance.
What length should I choose?
The length of the cue is measured from the butt end of the cue to the end of the ferrule beneath the tip. A full size Peradon snooker cue is 58” long, whilst 8 Ball English Pool cues are usually slightly shorter at 55” to 57”, but we can bespoke make your cue to the length you require.
Players of around average height will usually find a 58” full size cue suits them for snooker, whilst particularly tall players may require longer cues and shorter players may require shorter cues.
The generally accepted method for checking the length of cue you require is hold the cue in your usual playing stance over the table with your forearm vertical from hand to elbow. A cue of the ideal length would then have 12” of shaft protruding from the bridge hand to the tip of the cue.
If you require a cue longer than 58” it should be noted that in order to do this you will first need to first select a Butt Timber which the cue maker will splice to the shaft.
What Butt Timber should I choose and should it be hand or machine spliced?
Butt timber (Ebony or Rosewood) can be spliced to the shaft of your cue either by machine or hand splicing to add natural weight to your cue.
Hand splicing is the technique originally developed by Peradon, it is generally considered to give the best feel and is the preference of most professional players. This method involves bonding four timber wedges around the shaft of the cue and then shaping them to create the four curved points which are characteristic of a hand spliced cue.
Machine splicing is a very effective and more economical way of splicing butt timber to the shaft of a cue. The shaft of the cue and the butt timber of the cue are shaped by machine to interlock with each other, before being bonded together. This method creates the four sharper points by which a machine spliced cue can be recognised.
Ebony or Rosewood are the traditional timbers used as cue butt timbers. Their purpose is to add natural weight to the cue and to give the cue a nice balanced feel. Ebony is generally considered superior and is the choice of most professional players however Rosewood is also very effective and is attractive in appearance.
Also note that the range 'cue weight' options available will change dependent on butt timbers and joint positions selected.
Should I have a joint in my cue and if so, where?
In order to make your cue more portable it can be fitted with a solid brass joint. This can be in the centre of the cue or lower down the cue towards the butt in what is known as the three-quarter position (12”, 14” or 16” from the end of the butt). The options of joint positions available changes depending on whether your cue is machine or hand spliced. Most professional players now play with cues with a joint in one of the three quarter positions or with a one-piece cue (without a joint).
When considering whether or where to joint your cue consider how you will transport the cue as the joint position determines the length of case required. Also note that any cue you design can also have the option of a 'butt end joint fitted' so that extensions can still be used.
All Peradon joints are precision turned in the UK from one solid piece of brass, this eliminates the risk of joint noises which are sometimes caused by other lower cost joints which consist of a brass washer with a separate male or female portion.
Please note that the range of 'cue weight' options available will change dependent on joint positions and butt timbers selected.
Remember that cue cases vary in internal size (see Peradon website) and the joint position you choose will determine which cases your cue will fit into.
Should I have a butt joint fitted?
Most players nowadays opt to have a butt joint fitted to the end of the cue, so that an extension can be quickly fitted directly into the end of the butt. A butt joint is a female solid brass joint fitted to the very end of the butt instead of the leather butt pad. This joint will accept any one of the Peradon extensions, the most popular ones being the 6” mini butt extensions and the 23” Telescopic extension.
All Peradon joints and extensions feature the Peradon unique quick action thread, which screws on quickly and securely.
What is a Dome Joint?
If required a dome joint can be fitted 8 inches from the butt end of your cue. Dome joints are usually only requested by English 8 Ball Pool players who may play in restricted spaces or venues with obstructions. The dome joint enables the player to remove 8” from the butt of the cue and play some shots with just the shaft which is then domed at the end. It should be noted that if a dome joint is selected it is not possible to also select large decorative splices on the butt of the cue because of the position in which a dome joint is fitted.
What weight should I choose?
The weight of your cue is very much personal preference, so we would recommend that you find another cue with a weight that suits you and request that weight. Please note that the range of 'cue weight' options available will change dependent on joint positions and butt timbers selected. For example a solid 16 inch Ebony butt will be naturally heavier than a cue with no butt timbers. When possible we will select timbers that naturally create a cue of the weight requested, but when necessary a lead insert may be fitted securely into the butt. As a guide the most popular weights requested are in the area of 18-19oz.
What type of tip should I choose?
The choice of leather tip is very much down to personal preference, we offer the most popular three options...
Elk Master
The Elk Master tip is made by world renowned tip makers Tweeten Fibre in Chicago and has been the choice of most professional players for many years.
Elk-Pro
Tweeten Fibre now also produce the Elk-Pro tip which is a professional version of the Elk Master tip. The Elk-Pro is made only from the premium portion of the hide and is treated and pressed using new processes which give improved consistency and shape. Each Elk-Pro tip is then measured for hardness and graded in Soft, Medium or Hard options.
Talisman
The Talisman Pro tip is the most popular of the layered tips which have also become popular in more recent years. These tips are made from layers of high quality pigskin bonded together to give good chalk adhesion and consistency.
What Type Size and Hardness should I choose?
The size of the tip used in dependent on the size of ball being used and personal preference. Snooker cue tips are typically between 9.5mm and 10mm, whilst English 8 Ball Pool Cue tips are usually between 8mm and 8.5mm. If you are unsure what size you require go larger rather than smaller, you can always have the shaft thinned down later but you cannot put it back on!
Some tips are now also available in different hardnesses. Tips which are not offered in different hardness options can vary quite significantly, so selecting a tip which has been measured for its hardness gives the player the advantage of knowing they have a tip that suits them. Medium hardness tips are the most popular option, so if you are unsure which hardness to select we would suggest starting off with a Medium.
Which ferrule type should I choose?
The vast majority of Snooker and English 8 Ball pool players use a brass ferrule, we do however also offer a black fibre ferrule as this generally used in the game of Chinese 8 ball pool.
All ferrules have an internal thread and are also securely bonded to the cue shaft to eliminate the risk of any issues.
Which Extension?
Players will usually carry either a telescopic extensions or 20” Ebonised extension in addition to a 6” mini butt (for mini butt see option below)
Our telescopic extensions are manufactured from aluminium in the UK and are the extensions used by most professional players today. The most popular size is the 23”to35” version.
20” Ebonised extensions are of timber construction, polished black to give an ebony like appearance without the weight of Ebony, which would be excessive for an extension of this length.
All joints are fitted with Peradon male quick action joints to ensure quick and secure attachment to your Peradon cue.
6” mini butt?
The 6” mini butt enables a player to reach the vast majority of hard to reach shots without the need for harder to use longer extensions.
A selection of timber choices are available. We also offer both a solid ebony and an ebonised version of the 6” mini butt, this enables the player to choose the lighter Ebonised version or the heavier solid Ebony version. The ebonised version (polished black) is the most popular choice.
How will the timber of my cue be finished?
Your cue will be finished with a blend of oils using numerous sanding and oiling processes. This ensures that the timber is well sealed and protected whilst also giving a silky smooth finish. We do not lacquer finish unless it is requested.
What guarantee do I get with my cue?
When you receive your cue we would ask you to check it thoroughly and report any issues within 2-3days. In the very unlikely event that there is a fault in the manufacture of your cue we would ask you to return it to us in the condition it was received (in the original packaging by an insured carrier) within one week for a refund on receipt (excluding any carriage charges). If your cue is cared for in accordance with our advice its quality will be maintained. Beyond this we treat any issues on their own merit, we are fair and reasonable people and want you to be successful and happy with your cue.
Why buy Peradon?
When you order a Peradon cue you purchase in the knowledge that your cue will be crafted by the longest established cue makers in the world who were responsible for the introduction of the hand spliced cue. All Peradon cues are made with great pride by our time served cue makers in our Liverpool factory from timber sourced from around the globe to our meet our stringent quality requirements. All the timbers we purchase are in their raw form, so the quality of the whole manufacturing process is 100% under our control. We do not purchase any semi-finished cues, joints or ferrules from overseas, absolutely everything (except the tip!) is genuinely manufactured in England.
Do I need a bespoke made cue?
Maybe not! There are two main reasons why people purchase bespoke made cues. Some players want a unique cue, built to their own design and specifications, whilst others need something which is outside of the usual specifications available(for example a longer cue). If you visit a Peradon stockist you may find a stock cue that suits your requirements at a lower cost than a bespoke made cue. The choice is yours.
How do I order my cue?
At the end of the online design process you can save your design and it will be allocated a design number. You may then order the cue through a Peradon stockist quoting the design number or if you wish you can proceed to order it through the cue wizard website. Payment is taken at the time of ordering.
When will I receive my cue?
We manufacture the cue shafts in advance so the shaft timbers can settle before being graded and individually selected by the cue maker for each order. The production time of your cue is dependent on a number of factors including availability of the grade of shaft requested, the amount of decorative splicing on your cue and the current workload.
Approximate production times are as follows:
- Cue with Ash Shaft Grade P1600 - 30 weeks
- Cue with Ash Shaft Grade P80 - 10 to12 weeks
- Cue with Ash Shaft Grade P60 - 8 to10 weeks
- Cue with Ash Shaft Grade P30 - 8 to10 weeks
- Cue with Ash Grade Shaft P20 - 8 to10 weeks
- Cue with Maple Shaft - 8 to10 weeks
How will my cue be sent?
Your cue will be well packaged and protected and will be sent on a “signed for” service by UPS, whom we have found to be very reliable. We deliver to most regions of the world, if delivery costs are applicable in your country they are added to your order at the checkout stage.
When I receive my cue how should I look after it?
As a thin, tapered piece of timber your cue needs to be correctly looked after in order to avoid warping. If not correctly looked cared for any cue, regardless of quality, will warp. Following this advice will ensure that your cue remains in perfect condition for every game.
- Store your cue upright in a cue rack or vertically in a cue case in a cool, dry place.
- Keep your cue away from radiators, hot water pipes and our of direct sunlight and hot vehicles.
- Do not lean your cue against the wall.
- Do not lean on your cue whilst playing.
- Do not bang the butt of your cue on the floor to acknowledge good shots.