Most snooker cues look almost identical from across the room. Pick two up, though, and they feel like different tools. One sits naturally in the hand. The other feels nose-heavy, too thin at the butt, or just slightly wrong without you being able to say why.
A lot of that comes down to five things: the joint style, the weight, the length, the shaft wood, and the tip. Get those right and almost any well-made cue will play well for you. Get them wrong and even an expensive one will sit in the case.
This guide covers the variables that actually matter when you're choosing a snooker cue, the main brands worth knowing in the UK, and what to buy depending on whether you're starting out, playing in a club, or competing in matches.
One piece, two piece or 3/4 jointed?
There are three common joint styles. Each is a trade-off between feel and convenience.
One piece cues
A one piece cue is exactly what it sounds like. No joint, no fittings, just a single length of timber. They give you the cleanest hit and the most direct feedback, which is why nearly every professional plays with one. The downside is obvious: a 58-inch one piece is awkward to carry and won't fit in most car boots without lying it diagonally across the back seat.
If you live near your club or play at home, a one piece is hard to beat. Browse the range at one piece snooker cues.
Two piece cues
A two piece cue splits in the middle. Easy to carry, slot it in a standard case, throw it in the boot. The trade-off is the joint sits roughly where your bridge hand goes, so on some shots you can feel a small dead spot where the metal connection is. Modern two-piece cues hide this well, but a sensitive player will notice it on certain strokes.
See the two piece snooker cues collection.
3/4 jointed cues
A 3/4 jointed cue splits about three-quarters of the way down the shaft, well below where your bridge hand sits. You get most of the feel of a one piece with most of the portability of a two piece. For a lot of serious club players, this is the sweet spot.
3/4 jointed snooker cues cover most of the better mid-range and premium UK cues.
Honest take: if you have to travel with the cue, go 3/4. If you don't, go one piece. Two piece cues are mainly for occasional players or as a second cue.
Weight, length and balance
These three settle how a cue actually feels in your hand. They matter more than the brand on the butt.
Length
Standard snooker cue length is 57 to 58 inches. That suits most players from around 5ft 6 up to 6ft 2. Taller players sometimes go to 60 inches, shorter or junior players to 54 or 55.
If you're taller than average, a cue extension is usually a better answer than buying a longer cue, because you only need the extra length on certain shots over the cushion.
Weight
Cues are usually sold in the 16oz to 20oz range. Most adult players settle somewhere between 17.5oz and 19oz. Heavier cues feel more solid through the strike and reward smooth, slow cue actions. Lighter cues are quicker through the ball and easier to control with side.
Common starting points:
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17.5 to 18oz for players with a smooth, classical cue action
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18.5 to 19oz for the typical UK club player
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19 to 20oz for power players or those who want a "planted" feel
Don't pick the heaviest cue you can swing. A cue you have to work to deliver will tire your action over a long session.
Balance
The balance point is where the cue sits level on one finger. On most well-made snooker cues this falls between 17 and 19 inches from the butt. A forward balance point gives a more responsive, lively feel. A rearward balance feels more solid and planted.
There's no right answer. Pick up a cue and see where it settles. If it feels like all the weight is in your bridge hand, the balance is too far forward for you.
Ash or maple shaft
Two woods dominate snooker cue making.
Ash is the traditional UK choice. It has a visible grain that runs the length of the shaft, which a lot of players use as a sighting aid. The wood has a slightly firmer feel and is what most British players grew up with.
Maple is cleaner-looking, almost grain-free, with a slightly softer hit through the ball. It's more common on Asian and American cues, and has become popular among UK players who prefer the smoother appearance and feel.
Neither is better. Some players swap to maple for a season and go straight back to ash. The only way to know is to play a few shots with each.
You can filter the cue range by wood at snooker cues.
Tip diameter and what it changes
The tip is the smallest part of the cue and one of the most influential. Diameter affects how much spin you can apply and how forgiving the cue is on off-centre hits.
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9mm to 9.5mm: professional and serious club spec. Tighter tip, more spin available, less margin for error.
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10mm: the most common all-round size, the sensible default for a club player.
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10.5mm to 11mm: wider, more forgiving, often found on entry-level or older cues.
If you're a beginner, a 10mm tip will be easier to use consistently than a 9mm. As your striking gets cleaner, narrowing the tip gives you more of a professional feel. For more on tip choice itself, see the snooker cue tips guide.
Choosing a cue by skill level
The right cue depends on where you are in the game.
Beginner or casual player
You want a cue that's comfortable, sensibly balanced, and won't put you off the game. Skip the bargain-bin cues with painted finishes and plastic ferrules. They warp quickly and play poorly.
A two piece or 3/4 jointed cue in the £60 to £150 range from a known UK brand will see you through your first year or two without complaint. Most ranges on snooker cues at this price band are honest, well-made cues from established makers.
Club player
If you're playing weekly, in a league, or putting serious time in, it's worth stepping up to a better mid-range or entry-level handmade cue. You're looking at £150 to £400. At this level the shaft selection is better, the finish is properly hand-applied, and the cue will hold its shape for years.
The Peradon mid-range and Asia Cues' lower lines are good places to start.
Competition and serious players
This is where handmade cues start to earn their keep. A handmade cue is built around a hand-picked shaft, balanced by feel rather than to a spec sheet, and finished with a tip and ferrule chosen by the maker. You'll pay £400 upwards, often well into four figures for the top end.
Look at Prestige Cues and the Premium Cues handmade range, including the Rocket and the Evolve.
The brands worth knowing
A handful of brands turn up again and again in UK snooker rooms. Knowing what each is good for makes the choice easier.
Peradon
Established in 1885, Peradon is the heritage British cue maker. They cover everything from a first cue at around £60 up to one-off handmades. The ash one-piece range is a standard sight at clubs across the country.
Browse the full Peradon cues collection. Worth a look:
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Peradon Joe Davis One Piece Snooker Cue for a sensibly priced, traditional one piece.
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Peradon Chiltern One Piece Snooker Cue as a step up.
Premium Cues handmade
The in-house range, built in the UK to order. Three of the better-known models:
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Premium Cues Rocket Handmade 3/4 Jointed Snooker Cue (Maple)
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Premium Cues Original Handmade Titanium Two Piece Snooker Cue
Cannon
A good value end of the market. Plays honestly for the money and a fair first cue for someone trying the game properly without spending too much. See Cannon cues.
Powerglide
A long-established UK brand with a wide range covering most price points. The Powerglide mid-range is reliable and easy to live with. See Powerglide.
Asia Cues
Thai-made cues that have built a serious following in the UK club game. The shafts are well selected, the finish is excellent, and the price-to-quality ratio is hard to argue with. See Asia Cues.
How to look after a snooker cue
A good cue will last decades if you treat it properly. Most cues that get retired early have been ruined by storage, not play.
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Wipe the shaft down after every session with a clean, dry cloth. If the shaft feels sticky, a barely damp cloth followed by a dry one works.
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Never lean a cue against a wall. The pressure on the tip and the warmth of the wall will warp it. Store it flat or hanging vertically from the butt.
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Always keep it in a cue case. The case isn't optional, it's the difference between a cue that plays well in five years and one that doesn't.
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Re-tip every six to twelve months depending on how much you play. A glazed or worn tip will quietly ruin your game long before you notice. See the cue tips guide for what to fit.
Common mistakes when buying your first cue
A few patterns come up constantly with first-time buyers.
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Buying too heavy. A 20oz cue feels confident in the shop. After two hours of play, it feels like a fence post.
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Choosing on looks. Pretty cues sometimes play badly. Plain cues sometimes play beautifully. Get the spec right first, then choose between two cues that match.
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Ignoring the tip diameter. A 10.5mm tip on what's meant to be a serious cue is a warning sign that the cue is built down to a price.
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Skipping the case. Spending £200 on a cue and £8 on a thin nylon sleeve makes no sense. Buy a proper case at the same time.
FAQs
What is the best snooker cue for a beginner? A two piece or 3/4 jointed cue from a known UK brand, around 18 to 18.5oz, with a 10mm tip and a sensible price tag. Cannon, Powerglide and the lower end of Peradon all fit.
Are handmade snooker cues worth the money? For a serious player, yes. The shaft selection, finish and balance on a handmade cue are noticeably better than a factory-made cue. For a casual player who plays a few times a year, no.
What weight snooker cue do the professionals use? Most are in the 17.5oz to 19oz range. There's no consensus. Some lighter, some heavier.
Should I buy a one piece or 3/4 jointed cue? One piece for feel if you can manage the carrying. 3/4 if you need to travel with it. Two piece only if you really need the portability or you want a second cue.
How long should a snooker cue last? Decades if it's stored properly. The shaft, butt and joint will outlast the tip and ferrule many times over.
In short
Pick the joint style that fits how you'll carry the cue. Match the weight, length and balance to your action. Get the tip diameter right for your skill level. Choose a brand with a real reputation rather than a cheap copy.
If you're starting out, go mid-range from a UK brand and a proper case. If you're a club player ready to upgrade, look at Peradon, Asia Cues and the entry handmades. If you're competing, the in-house Premium Cues range and the Prestige collection are the obvious next step.
The full range is at snooker cues. The team are happy to talk through options if you're not sure which way to go.
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September 29, 2026
Heyball is one of the fastest-growing games in cue sports, and British players are winning it. England's Gareth Potts and Kelly Fisher took the WPA Heyball World Championship titles in 2025 and defended both in 2026. Yet most UK players have still never played it.
If you play English pool, American pool or snooker, you already know half the game. Heyball uses American balls on a table built like a snooker table, with rules close to eight ball. That mix is exactly why it is so hard. This guide explains what heyball is, how it differs from the games you know, and what equipment you need to try it.
Where the name comes from
Heyball and Chinese 8-ball are the same game. In China it is known as "black eight", and hei is the Chinese word for black. Heyball is the anglicised name that organisers and Joy, the table maker behind the biggest events, now use internationally.
The game grew up in China through the 1980s and 1990s, when snooker was the country's main cue sport and eight ball was catching on. Players ended up with a hybrid: pool balls and pool rules on snooker-style tables.
Heyball, English pool and American pool compared
The short version: American balls, snooker-style table and pockets. The official playing surface is 2540mm by 1260mm, the same area as an American 9ft table.
Why heyball is so hard
The difficulty comes from the combination. A 57.2mm ball is the big American size, and a rounded pocket is far less forgiving than the straight-cut jaws of an American table. Balls that would rattle in on an American table stay out on a heyball table.
Napped cloth adds a second problem. As in snooker, the nap affects how slower balls roll, so pace control matters more than on the fast cloth of an American table. Many snooker players find the game more natural than pool players do for this reason. Many pool players find the ball size and the eight ball rules more natural. Nobody gets it all for free.
The rules in brief
Heyball rules are set by the organiser of each event, and the International Heyball Pool Association (IHPA), part of the World Pool Association, runs the world championship. The details below follow the widely used Rules of Chinese Pool (revised 2017, updated 2019). Tournament versions can differ, so check the rules for any event you enter.
Groups. Fifteen numbered balls. One player takes the solids (1 to 7), the other takes the stripes (9 to 15). Clear your group, then pot the 8 to win the frame.
The rack. The front ball goes on the foot spot, the 8 goes in the centre of the triangle, and the two back corners take one solid and one stripe.
The break. The break must be powerful. The rules count how many times balls cross the head string, with a pot counting towards the total. Men need four crossings, and women and players under 14 need three. A break that drives fewer than four balls to a cushion counts as a deliberate soft break and loses the frame.
Potting the 8 on the break. This is not a foul. The breaker chooses whether to re-spot the 8 and carry on, or break again.
Fouls. The opponent gets the cue ball in hand anywhere on the table.
Calling shots. Not required under these rules, including on the 8. Flukes count.
Top events play long matches. The opening stage of the 2026 Joy Cup Masters Grand Finals was played as races to 13 frames.
The big events and the British success story
Two events stand out.
The Joy Cup World Heyball Masters Grand Finals in Qinhuangdao, China, is among the richest events in cue sports. In 2026 the winner's prize was 5,000,000 yuan, roughly $724,000 at the time.
The WPA Heyball World Championship is where British players have done best. Gareth Potts won the men's title in 2025 and retained it in Pune, India, in 2026, beating Wales's Jordan Shepherd 7-4 in the final. Kelly Fisher won the women's title in both years, taking the 2026 final against Thailand's Waratthanun Sukritthanes in a shootout. Further back, Darren Appleton won the 2015 Chinese 8-ball world title, beating Mark Selby in the final.
The WPA also points out that heyball is the only discipline in which men and women compete at the highest professional level.
The cue: closer to snooker than pool
A heyball cue looks like a snooker cue. It has a slim, tapered wooden shaft, usually ash or maple, a spliced butt and a brass joint, and it is often three-quarter jointed. The difference is at the business end. A 57.2mm ball needs a bigger tip than a 52.5mm snooker ball, so heyball cues carry a larger tip and a slightly thicker taper, and they tend to be heavier.
Our own heyball cues are built this way. They come with a hand-spliced ebony butt, a choice of ash or maple shaft, a titanium ferrule and a fitted Elkmaster cue tip. The tip is sized between 10.5mm and 11.5mm, against the 9mm to 10mm typical of a snooker cue.
Can you use a snooker cue? For a first game, yes. Plenty of snooker players try heyball with their own cue before deciding whether to take it further. The smaller tip is the reason dedicated cues exist, and most players who stick with the game move to one.
Ferrules. Our heyball cues use a titanium ferrule rather than brass, to reduce deflection when you use side. If your current cue has a brass ferrule, a titanium ferrule can be fitted by a cue repairer.
Reach. A 9ft table is a lot longer than a 7ft English pool table. Our heyball cues have a brass extension joint in the butt, and our cue extensions screw in for long shots.
Balls for practice
Heyball uses standard 57.2mm American pool balls. The official specification is 57.15mm, within half a tenth of a millimetre, and 156g to 170g. Any quality American set suits practice at home or at a club. Our American pool balls include Aramith sets and the DynaSpheres 572 range, all at 57.2mm.
Remember that an English pool triangle will not take American-sized balls. You need a full-size American triangle to rack them.
A glove is worth trying
Plenty of heyball and pool players wear a glove on the bridge hand. On a big table with unforgiving pockets, a smooth, consistent bridge matters, and a glove stops the cue catching on a dry or sweaty hand. Our billiard gloves come in left and right-handed versions.
In short
Heyball is eight ball played with American balls on a snooker-style table. The rules will feel familiar and the pockets will not. If you play snooker, your cue action carries straight across. If you play pool, you already know how the game flows. Either way, it is the most interesting thing happening in cue sports right now, and British players are leading the way.
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September 29, 2026
Every frame starts with the rack. Get it right and the break spreads properly, the game plays as it should and nobody argues. Get it wrong and you either get a dead break that barely moves the pack, or a disagreement two shots in about whether the black was in the right place.
The confusing part is that "pool" means different things depending on which table you are standing at. English pool, American pool, nine ball and snooker all rack differently, and the rule for one will mislead you on another. This guide covers all four, starting with the one most UK players need.
A good triangle matters more than people expect. A loose or worn one leaves gaps between the balls, and gaps are the most common reason a break goes nowhere. Our pool and snooker table triangles are the same Sheffield-made racks used at English pool tournaments.
English pool: reds and yellows
This is the game on pub tables, in leagues and in most UK clubs. It uses fifteen unnumbered balls: seven reds, seven yellows and one black. There are no solids and no stripes.
The black goes in the middle of the pack, sitting on the black spot. It sits in the centre of the third row of the triangle, and the triangle is positioned so that ball lands on the spot. It never goes at the front. This single point causes more racking arguments than everything else combined, usually because someone has picked the game up from American pool.
The black spot is at the opposite end of the table from the baulk line. It sits where two imaginary diagonal lines would cross, each drawn from a middle pocket to the top corner pocket on the opposite side of the table.
The rack pattern
The reds and yellows are not placed at random. The World Pool-Billiard Association (WPA) Blackball rules set a fixed pattern, row by row from the front ball back:
The reds and yellows can be swapped over, as long as the shape of the pattern stays the same. Notice that the two back corners are always different colours, and that neither colour is bunched on one side. That is the whole point of a set pattern: nobody gets an easier spread off the break because of how the balls were racked.
If your league plays International Rules, set by the International Eightball Pool Federation (the WEPF until it rebranded in 2024), use the diagram in its rulebook. The principle is the same: black on the spot and a fixed spread of colours.
Setting up, step by step
Placing the black on the same spot frame after frame wears the cloth there first. Our English pool rack, the Pro Racker, has an alignment slot designed to reduce that wear around the black spot.
Ball sizes for English pool
English pool object balls come in two sizes: 2 inches (51mm) and 2 and one sixteenth inches (52mm), which is close to snooker size. The cue ball is often slightly smaller, typically 1 and seven eighths inches (47.6mm) on a 2 inch set. That difference is deliberate. It lets coin-operated pub tables separate the cue ball from the object balls and return it after a pot.
Check which size your table and triangle are built for before buying. Most English pool triangles, including ours, are made for 2 inch sets. Our pool balls are listed by diameter for exactly this reason.
American pool: solids and stripes
American eight ball uses fifteen numbered balls at 2 and a quarter inches (57.2mm). Balls 1 to 7 are solids, 9 to 15 are stripes and the 8 is black.
Here the rule flips. The front ball of the triangle goes on the foot spot, not the 8.
Our American pool balls are the full 57.2mm size. They will not fit an English pool triangle, so the two are not interchangeable.
Nine ball
Nine ball uses a diamond-shaped rack rather than a triangle, and only the balls numbered 1 to 9.
Nine ball is played on American tables with American-sized balls. If you are watching professional pool on television and the players are potting in number order, this is the game.
Snooker
Snooker uses twenty two balls: fifteen reds, six colours and a cue ball, all at 52.5mm. The reds go in a triangle and each colour has its own marked spot.
The reds
Rack the fifteen reds in a triangle at the top end of the table, with the back row parallel to the top cushion. The front red should sit as close to the pink as possible without touching it. As with pool, the pack needs to be tight.
The colours and their spots
Standing at the baulk end and looking up the table, the three baulk colours run left to right: green, brown, yellow. The old way to remember it is "God Bless You".
The order you pot them in
While reds remain, each red is followed by a colour of your choice, and that colour goes back on its spot. Once the last red and its colour are gone, the colours are potted in value order and stay down: yellow, green, brown, blue, pink, black.
Full-size snooker balls are 52.5mm. On a smaller home table you may be using undersized balls, and the spot positions scale with the table rather than staying at the measurements above.
Five things that go wrong
A loose pack. The most common fault by far. If the balls are not touching, the energy from the break disappears into the gaps instead of spreading the pack. Push the balls together from the back before lifting the triangle.
Dragging the triangle off. Lift it straight up. Dragging it pulls the front balls out of position and loosens everything behind them.
Racking English pool like American pool. The black at the front instead of in the middle on the spot. It happens constantly.
Ignoring the pattern. Bunching all the reds on one side gives whoever ends up on reds a much easier table after the break.
A worn or warped triangle. Wooden triangles distort over time and cheap plastic ones develop play at the corners. If you cannot get a tight pack however you push the balls, the triangle is usually the problem rather than your technique.
Keeping the table fit to rack on
Chalk dust and grime build up around the spots faster than anywhere else on the table, because that is where the balls sit between frames. Cloth that has gone shiny or greasy under the pack stops the balls sitting tight and changes how the pack spreads.
Brushing the table along the nap after each session takes less than a minute. Our billiard table brushes are made for the job, and a brush costs far less than a re-cloth.
If you are practising alone rather than playing frames, snooker training balls with marked spots show exactly what the cue ball is doing, which a plain white will not.
In short
If you remember one thing, make it this: English pool puts the black on the spot in the middle of the pack, and American pool puts the front ball on the spot. Everything else comes down to the right pattern, a tight pack and a clean lift.
For anyone kitting out a table from scratch, our DynaSpheres cue sports balls include the official balls of the World Nineball Tour, and the snooker sets are graded by how closely the balls match each other in weight. That consistency shows most clearly in exactly the moment this guide is about: how a tight pack behaves when you hit it.
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August 04, 2026
We design a lot of what we sell, and the case we are proudest of has just landed. The Premium Cues Stellar Professional is our own aluminium hard case, designed to our exact specifications and made for players who will not compromise on protecting their cue. It arrives in both one-piece and 3/4 jointed formats, so whatever you play with, there is a Stellar to match.
This is the case we now reach for first when someone asks us what we would carry ourselves.
Our case, our name on it
Plenty of shops sell cases. Fewer put their own name on the front and stand behind it. The Stellar is a Premium Cues design from the ground up. Read More...
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